A journey to one of the Southern Hemisphere’s last great wilderness destinations: a cruise along Western Australia’s stunning Kimberley Coast

It’s very busy on deck. “What the hell is this?” There is a frantic battle to discern what exactly is coming to our ship.

“Get the binoculars!” someone shouts. The theories come thick and fast – then, oh, is it just rope or maybe seaweed? But as it floats by on the ocean’s gentle swells, it becomes clear that it is in fact a giant sea snake.

This is not the first beautiful sight we have encountered here in the waters off Australia’s Kimberley coast. Our 12-day journey from the ancient pearl town of Broome to the bustling port city of Darwin has already taken us through horizontal waterfalls and into mirrored bays, where the rocks hide ancient Aboriginal art, and past wild gorges where ospreys nestle from cliffs in the crimson cliffs open-jawed crocodiles in the thick heat of the sun.

The Kimberley region in western Australia’s far north is one of the Southern Hemisphere’s last great wilderness destinations – home to vast, desolate plains, towering mountains and a remote, almost impenetrable coastline. The region is almost twice the size of the United Kingdom, but has fewer people per square meter than almost anywhere else on earth.

Washed by monsoon rains in the wet season and baked red under intense heat in the dry season, the vast, bold landscapes are steeped in fascinating history, from tales of pearl diving to frontier wars and Aboriginal creation myths. Some of the world’s greatest tides wash away the empty beaches here, and thousands of fascinating islands are scattered along the coast like shards of broken pottery. It’s no surprise that this is a place best explored by boat.

And we are indeed on a very beautiful ship. Le Laperouse is a 184-seat mega-yacht perfectly designed for exploring the kind of places that few get to visit. It features 92 cabins and suites (all with private balconies), a spa, sommelier, butler, and includes helicopter tours.

The food is also delicious. We start each adventurous day with a feast of Benedicts, pancakes and omelettes, while at Le Nautilus restaurant dinners of kingfish fillet, lobster and Wagyu beef are served with the best Artemis Domaines wines under the moon.

But the best thing is not the food, nor the fancy suites or the generous amount of champagne at breakfast. It is undoubtedly our experienced expedition team that smoothly filters us into Zodiac boats and takes us to this heartbreakingly dramatic landscape.

Lizzie travels on a luxury expedition ship called Le Laperouse. The sauna on board is shown

The ship has 92 cabins and suites, all with private balconies

On board, Lizzie enjoys a dinner of kingfish fillet, lobster and Wagyu beef, served with the best Artemis Domaines wines.

One day, as we make our way through the eerily atmospheric mangrove channels of Porosis Creek, expedition leader Brad Climpson regales us with tales of crocodiles throwing their entire bodies out of the water to pluck prey from low-hanging branches.

Snorkeling in the clear blue-green waters of Ashmore Reef, surrounded by sea turtles, manta rays and juvenile tiger sharks, scientist and wildlife filmmaker Dr. Frederique Olivier to a very special island.

As we approach, the entire land mass seems to shake, break apart, and then float upwards. We suddenly realize that there are tens of thousands of seabirds – noddies, gannets and frigatebirds – roaming around and filling the sky above us. It is one of the most amazing things I have ever seen and I almost expect to turn my head to see Sir David Attenborough bobbing on a boat behind us, binoculars raised.

Spectacle: Lizzie experiences the thrill of Kimberley’s horizontal falls

Le Laperouse (pictured) is “perfectly designed to explore the kind of places that few get to visit”.

A nightly lecture series in the ship’s theater helps us to put into context what we have seen on our daily excursions. In addition to lectures by geologists and natural scientists, the anthropologist dr. Shirley Campbell interprets the remarkable Wandjina petroglyphs that we see on land every day. This landscape may seem barren, but people have lived here for tens of thousands of years.

Bart Pigram, a Yawuru guide and museum curator from Broome, also talks passionately and engagingly about his family’s history with pearl diving. profitable South Sea pearl mussel.

It is a true honor to learn firsthand from those who have dedicated their lives to the study of this area and its rich human and natural history. These conversations give us a deep, valuable understanding of the Kimberley.

Each day ends in style with a cocktail hour on the Le Laperouse viewing platform. As we chat excitedly about the incredible things we’ve seen—keeping our eyes open for more sea serpents to visit, or watching the flying fish glide across the shallow ocean—the sun slowly sinks, bathing the sky in purple, amber and gold.

These iconic Kimberley sunsets are one of the most unfathomable things you will ever see. This beauty alone is worth a visit to this remote, exciting part of the world.