A small sign in the window of Westwood Books in the historic Cumbrian town of Sedbergh declares that “every book you haven’t read is a new book”. This seems especially striking considering that we celebrated World Book Day on Thursday.
Mind you, books are everywhere in Sedbergh. They are spread out in the dark, atmospheric lounge of the Black Bull Hotel, the charming 17th-century former coaching inn where we book an evening.
There is even a selection of Dickens novels in our room – published in 1901 on paper the color of cigarette stains and printed to commemorate the end result of a particularly difficult eye test.
Outside, we find books in a redundant bus shelter that has been renamed “Book Shed”, where small boxes have taken titles to borrow and return. They pile up at Sedbergh Tourist Information Centre, which doubles as a bookseller.
There is a special charity shop called Clutterbooks. Meanwhile, a number of decidedly non-bookstores, as well as cafes and restaurants, appear to be stocking books after the fact.
Magnet for bookworms: Angela Epstein explores the market town of Sedbergh in Cumbria, England’s first “book town”
Last but not least, the Sleepy Elephant, a hiking shop in Sedbergh’s high street, where we find bookshelves with outdated copies of Enid Blyton or National Geographic’s compilations, side by side with special hiking boots.
It all makes sense when we discover that Sedbergh is England’s first ‘book town’, one of about 20 small country towns or villages scattered around the world where antique and antique shops are concentrated. (The more “out” Hay-on-Wye is in Wales, as Sedbergh has its English title).
Sleepy Elephant’s owner Carole Nelson tells us how she helped start the Sedbergh Book Town project to attract people back after the 2001 foot and mouth outbreak which devastated visitor numbers to the area.
But even if books are not your thing, there is much to attract the visitor to this friendly city. Which, a friendly resident told us, is pronounced sed-ber: the “g” is silent.
It’s a walker’s magnet for its location: Sedbergh is framed by the Howgills, a rolling chain of green-brown hills. A favorite spot in these grassy hills is Cautley Spout, England’s highest waterfall at 200 metres.
Here is also the Sedbergh School, founded in 1525, whose buildings are scattered throughout the town.

Those visiting Sedbergh can walk to the nearby Cautley Spout, England’s highest waterfall (pictured).
We even enjoy walking through walled lanes, paths and across fields to get a closer look at some of the stone property. The most moving is the Sedbergh School Memorial Cloisters, whose walls are engraved with the names of former pupils who fell in two world wars.
Another place for reflection and an easy walk about a mile from the center of Sedbergh is the Brigflatts Meeting House. Built in 1675 for the Religious Society of Friends – or Quakers – with its whitewashed stone walls and simple wooden furniture, this modest house attracts “friends” from all over the world. Or visitors like us, enjoying quiet contemplation in the sunny garden.
On nearby Firbank Fell in 1652, George Fox, the founder of the Quakers, preached his vision to 1,000 followers for three hours. Today, the rock he stood on – affectionately known as the Fuchskanzel – is marked with a plaque.

Angela likes the locals in Sedbergh (pictured), noting: “Everyone’s smiling and it only takes a quick frown for someone to ask if you’re lost.”
TRAVEL FACTS
Double rooms at Black Bull Sedbergh (theblackbullsedbergh.co.uk) from £125 and Broadoaks Country House (broadoakscountryhouse.co.uk) from £121. Visit sedbergh.org.uk.
But while he respects his past, Sedbergh also sees his legacy as a way to revive his future. Best understood during our visit to Farfield Mill.
This former Victorian woolen mill is now not only a curated exhibition featuring a 300-year-old Witney Blanket Loom with its flying shuttle, but also a center for working artists working in individual studios.
There is clearly a great desire to preserve old skills – from volunteers, the Farfield Mill Weaving Friends, who give demonstrations and even classes.
Given its proximity to the Lake District, it can be tempting to come to Sedbergh. And if you’re well-travelled, it’s a shame not to combine the two. We do this on another night, avoiding traffic-free Ambleside and Bowness to stay at Broadoaks, a 19th-century country house in the hamlet of Troutbeck.
But to miss Sedbergh is to miss even more. His people. Everyone smiles and all it takes is a frown for someone to ask if you’re lost. In such difficult times it is a pity that more people do not read Sedbergh’s book.
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James is an author and travel journalist who writes for The Fashion Vibes. With a love for exploring new cultures and discovering unique destinations, James brings his readers on a journey with him through his articles.