A small town that the French like to keep to themselves, Arras has all the ingredients for an ideal short break – shame most Brits drive past it

Once most travelers have crossed the English Channel, they pass through northern France to warmer climates in the south or snowy climates in the Alps. But if you’re driving on the highway, you’re missing out: In this corner of France, you’ll find a city with the right ingredients for the perfect city trip.

Historic Arras is located in the Hauts-de-France region, just 55 km from Lille and 180 km north of Paris, both served by direct Eurostar services. Both places are so easy to get to that many French people choose to live in Arras and commute to the bigger cities by TGV.

Arras is known for its architecture full of tunnels and caves that cover the ground beneath the city center. But that’s not the only reason why you should make Arras your next weekend getaway. Along with delicious food, friendly locals and charming accommodation, you just have to come here before everyone else finds out.

Arras’ history dates back to Roman times, but the market squares – the Grand Place and smaller Place des Heros – in the old town were laid out in the Middle Ages. The latter features the 16th-century town hall, with its UNESCO World Heritage-listed clock tower rising 75 meters into the air and crowned by a gilded lion.

A lift goes almost to the top, where a narrow wrap-around balcony offers views of the city and surrounding countryside, including Arras Cathedral and the Museum of Fine Arts, housed in a majestic abbey (which is also worth is worth visiting).

The beautiful squares are so impeccably preserved that it is hard to believe that 80 percent of the city was destroyed in the First World War. Thanks to careful planning by Philip II of Spain (Arras was under Spanish rule from 1556 to 1714 and Philip decreed that all buildings in the main squares should be of a uniform style and design), the city was left with detailed plans. In 1919 it was used to rebuild the city.

Today, both the Grand Place and Place des Heros are filled with beautiful buildings that house shops, cafes, restaurants and a handful of hotels. Book one of the four rooms overlooking the beautiful La Cour des Grands. Double rooms start from £71 per night (lacourdesgrandsarras.com).

Visit on a balmy summer evening and the piazzas will hum with the sounds of locals and visitors enjoying dinner and drinks. Try La Passe Pierre (lapassepierre.fr) for tasty local dishes and Chez Marcel (chez-marcel-arras.metro.bar) for an excellent selection of local craft beers.

Visit during La Fete de L’Andouillette in August and the piazzas are lined with long wooden tables where diners sit side by side to enjoy the local specialty: pork belly.

But in Arras the action is not only above ground. The region is rich in limestone, which was quarried from the 9th century, resulting in an underground landscape that, according to my guide, “looks like Swiss cheese”.

Cultural gem: The Museum of Fine Arts, housed in a majestic abbey, is worth a visit, reveals Katja

Spend the night outside in one of Domaine Natureza’s beautiful cabins, including one suspended in the air

Book a room with a view at the beautiful Hotel La Cour des Grands (above)

These “boves” (caves) played a decisive role in the history of the city and were used by Allied soldiers during the First World War. Before the Battle of Arras in 1917, 24,000 soldiers lived in these tunnels. In addition to dormitories, there were kitchens, latrines, command centers and a 700-bed hospital. You can visit the Wellington Tunnels on a guided tour (carrierwellington.com).

Thanks to its compact size, you can quickly reach the nature and green landscape around Arras. It’s perfect for exploring by electric bike or kayak along the Scarpe River in Riverside Park. Visit the Tourist Office (arraspaysdartois.com) for details of tours and rentals.

Spend the night outdoors in one of Domaine Natureza’s beautiful cabins, including one suspended in the air. The owners are happy to help arrange hot air balloon rides over the city – the most magical way to end your visit. Double room from £195 per night (domainenatureza.fr).