Olga Karput

World luxury clothing brands left Russia after the sanctions were imposed due to the conflict in Ukraine. Olga Karput, one of the main fashion icons of the capital’s party and owner of the KM20 concept store, assured her that she would stay in Russia in a correspondence with Spletnik, talked about her vision of “cancellation culture” and promised to “be taken”. in one pen” Korean and Japanese brands.

On purchasing new collections from western brands

The spring-summer season is already on the rails or on the road. As for the following collections, with them it is more difficult: most brands do not cancel orders, but do not yet give a guarantee. Whether we will see Jacquemus in our customers in the new season is an open question. It’s not just that the next designer who lives in Paris and messes up Le Mond is afraid of tarnishing his reputation by collaborating with the “aggressors”. At the law level, doing business with companies based in Russia was prohibited.

We mainly work with independent brands that receive financial support from the fashion room. The Fédération Française Industrie Vêtement is a very conservative institution where it is expressly recommended to strictly avoid working with Russian companies. Brands involved in the organization face the risk of being fined 30,000 euros. Now everything is frozen in the cautious hope for positive dynamics.

About the future of secular Moscow

Of course, the old secular format of three dinners in one evening seems to be something beyond the realm of possibility today. But people are now more acutely in need of communication as a form of psychotherapy than before. On Telegram, everyone began to meet in a more friendly atmosphere, more actively search and share “circles”. Just the other day the patio KM20 opened and the reservation was booked a few days in advance. This means that types of conversations in the kitchen have come to life, going out with people has become less idle, but more conscious: jewelry presentations and presentations have changed birthdays – they have not stopped celebrating them.

Olga Karput

On the return of Western brands and the Chanel scandal

I think this question [вернутся ли бренды] Not a single astrologer can answer. Of course, Russophobia has gone mainstream and what to hide has become a trendy agenda. Take the same professional world media: the authoritative fashion publication Business of Fashion often skipped international conflicts and did not focus on them. Now, they’re posting one article after another on the most trafficked topic. They bite off any bone – for some reason, the ridiculous case with Chanel has become for them the subject of deep analysis and a cause of embarrassment.

On the meaning of “culture of cancellation”

It certainly makes sense, otherwise this so-called “culture” would not have been cultivated so vigorously. The question arises: who are its beneficiaries? I haven’t met them yet. At first, I perceived the crusade against the Russians bitterly. Now all this has been brought to the point of absurdity and has only caused bewilderment.

At the request of fashionable clothes and price adjustment

Demand has not changed and has not gone anywhere – consumer habits began to change. Of course, there is no need to mention the queues at the box office, but there was no global release either. The overconsumption, which has been talked about since the beginning of the pandemic, now seems to be the most real, the most real. People try to live a normal life as much as possible in current conditions and to meet their basic needs.

While everything continues according to the old order, payments are made in euros. Given the increasingly complex logistics, adjustments are inevitable. I hope they’re not dramatic. We are ready to optimize at the expense of margin.

About KM20 Development Plans

We are slowly turning east. For example, Korean and Japanese brands, whose development we have been following for a long time, are now at our pen. I believe in the law of conservation of energy: wherever it went, it got there. We are already acquainted with cool Russian brands whose vision coincides with ours. In a crisis, people don’t stop investing in quality things because fashion is about the emotions needed to maintain a standard of living. I sincerely believed that our industry was about inclusivity and inclusivity, but there is more and more evidence in modern realities that this is a huge illusion.

About the opportunity to present Ukrainian designers at KM20

I have never chosen a brand on the basis of nationality, the main criterion is always talent. As for Ukrainian brands, since 2019 their sale and import is officially prohibited by law.

About the prospects of Russian designers

The outlook is pretty bleak. It is now anticipated that many Russian designers will cut Made in Moscow labels from their collections. Changing the country of registration, abandoning the Cyrillic alphabet, local production, moving offices entirely to Europe? I don’t think this is an option for most.

I think we will grow in the country. In addition, the question of development to the East is significant. China, Korea could become promising markets.

However, the other day, singer Grimes shared a glimpse of Nikita Chekrygin (founder of the brand CH4RM — Approx. ed.) on Instagram, and Big Sean performed in his Red September pants at Coachella. I want to believe that fashion is still about unity, goodness and beauty for all.

Grimes atop a Ch4rm for the Travel AlmanacBig Sean in Red September jeans at Coachella

About the importance of investing in fashion products

If you look at the prospects for the resale and resale of designer products, it seems to me that a second wind will open in Russia. That’s why investing in iconic things can be profitable. I bet the KM20 designers, how else.