Industry Forecasts: Designers, Influencers, and Telegram Channel Writers Discuss What Happens After Global Nostalgia for the 2000s

For over a year, the entire fashion community has been at zero version 2.0. This is “properly” indicated by all kinds of miniskirts (whose length has reached its peak), ultra-low-cut jeans, gradient glasses, rhinestone-studded tops, and dark T-shirts. Phrases in the spirit of Stop Being Poor. We saw all the above features of the Y2K era on the catwalks, on social networks and, of course, on the streets of megacities. And the style of Britney Spears, Paris Hilton and other icons was completely devoted to quotes by all concerned fashionistas.

But let’s not forget that fashion is a very capricious and indecisive lady, so the most “hot” and desirable things can turn into an “anti” trend with lightning speed. As they say, whoever has no time is late.

At the end of 2022, we decided to play the predictor and try to answer the question that worries everyone: what will happen after the global zero nostalgia? To do this, we analyzed not only the opinions of Western experts, but also interviewed Russian designers, influencers and authors of Telegram channels. Shall we begin?

Independent Poor Quality

What is Indie Sleaze? This is when Arctic Monkeys’ track “I’ll Look Good On The Dance Floor” plays in headphones, with Converse sneakers on their feet and ripped tights, an entire set of bracelets on their hands, and the main feature of the entire image. a voluminous T-shirt with cut-out sleeves and deep armholes (yes—yes, let it look like a top or lace bra). Overall, Indie Sleaze is a sort of mix of hipster fashion, 80s maximalism and 90s grunge that goes through the prism of lo-fi and DIY. We have seen echoes of this aesthetic in the Kenzo, Saint Laurent, Coach and even Versace collections.

We’ve been threatened with a big comeback by Indie Sleaze for over a month now. And each time the threats are more serious. Of course it all started with tiktok teens who were ironic about the style of tough girls of the late 2000s and then… fell in love. This was followed by articles from authoritative glossy publications (from Vogue to Harper’s Bazaar), which prophesied the return of aesthetics, the main adherents of which were Sky Ferreira and Agyness Deyn.

Scene

Representatives of this musical subculture of the late 2000s are often confused with emo. At first glance they have something in common. But this is only at first glance. Scene Kids wore acid-colored skinny jeans and quirky cage glasses (the kind Kanye West popularized), wore much-loved punchy belts and super-tight T-shirts, and had never heard of color combinations, prints, or patterns.

Agree, after such a statement it is hard to believe that this crazy aesthetic can return. But fashion definitely has a sense of humor. And just like that, the Jonas Brothers are back on stage and Machine Gun Kelly turns into something between emo and Scene.

Tweed

Twee is the opposite of Indie Sleaze. Translated from British English, twee means “sweet, sugary, interesting and emotional.” In the early 2010s, the main muses of this movement were Zooey Deschanel and Taylor Swift. His images were filled with pure infantilism. Both wore polka dot tops, Peter Pan-style turn-down collars, bows, pleated skirts, and pearl jewelry.

The return of the twee aesthetic is marked not only by the 100 million views of the respective hashtags on TikTok, but also by the collections of fashion brands. For example, Paco Rabanne gave Twee a daring character and Matthew Williams added a bit of futurism and geometry.

new sexuality

“The big jackets are getting tighter every season, and it’s a sure symbol of change. These words of fashion influencer Alyosha Slavko are confirmed by analysis of the Tagwalk platform. According to the results, more than 75% of the designers included translucent things in their spring-summer collections, and images that idolize bodies of all shapes and sizes completely took over the runway. These hobbies of the design shop spawned an entirely new movement that some are already calling bodycore.

Yulia Vasilevskaya, founder of the YULIAWAVE brand, also relies on physicality: “Translucent fabrics, tight silhouettes and all kinds of cuts – all this confirms the well-established body cult, which will not leave us for a long time. ”

However, Petersburg brand LaTrika, Alesya Nikonova votes for feminine silhouettes: “Tassels, ruffles and translucent fabrics will add to the romance of the images. Valentino and Miu Miu used plenty of sheer texture in their spring-summer collections, Victoria Beckham showed off a romantic patchwork and Saint Laurent emphasized the feminine shape with her floor-length bodycon dresses.

Post-apocalyptic futurism and digital fashion

This year, big brands began to conquer virtual reality with particular fervor, creating their own worlds and launching products that can be bought but not touched. Of course, the fashion industry could not stand aside. For example, Gucci has launched virtual sneakers that can be purchased at the market and then used in games, Japanese brand Ambush has launched an NFT ring collection, and fashion house Louis Vuitton introduced the puzzle adventure game Louis The Game. And we haven’t even started talking about the exponentially increasing number of virtual outfits.

“The desire to move into the metaverse determines trends in real life. A striking example of this is the Coperni show, where Bella Hadid literally dressed in a spray can on the runway. And at the start of the year, H&M is releasing both real-life and virtual-life clothing in one collection. And let’s not forget Lensa, the most popular app that lets you see yourself digitally,” says Alyosha Slavko.

The words of the previous expert are also confirmed by Inna Kombarova, the author of the Momkina Fashionista Telegram channel:

“We were already bums in a rip, we were gopota in sportswear, we used to love plus size and now we enjoy the zero and decimal return. I think there are two other possible ways: either we’re going to dress like the characters from the movie Dune as if we’re living in a post-apocalyptic world (this has already been shown by Kanye in the YZYSZN9 collection and by Kim Jones in the recent Dior show), or designers will start actively offering us digital-like clothing. For example, like Balmain and KAY KWAK. I really like Rohan Mirza 3D printed jewelry. I think accessories and shoes made this way are the future.”

By the way, about the apocalypse. Only Kanye West and Kim Jones drag us into the fantasy world of the impending end of the world. Big brands like Adidas and Levi’s also play on this theme. The sports giant has recently teamed up with Chinese brand Hamcus, whose advertising campaign recalls (apocalyptic) footage from the eighth season of American Horror Story. However, Levi’s released a collaboration with Wisdom; of these that either point to the colonization of Mars or the end of the world.

Smart minimalism

“If you believe in fashion cycles (it seems very consistent), then all “new” comes to replace “bottom”. And logically, the elegance and brilliance of prostitutes can be replaced by something very simple and even ascetic. Yulia Bolshakova, co-owner of St. Petersburg concept store Subbota, shares with us.

The words of our expert are confirmed by the trend analysis of the Tagwalk platform, where the minimalism of the 90s is gaining momentum again. We see echoes of fashion 30 years ago through laconic strapless dresses, satin skirts, tops with barely visible buttons, and formal suits.

Petersburg brand LaTrika Alesya Nikonova also draws on the minimalism of the 90s: “The fashion of the 90s will be with us for another two or three years. We see the confirmation of this not only on the catwalk, but also in the heroes of street style. Knit bandeau tops, cargo pants and crabs in the hair – next season you can confidently be inspired by the early career images of Jennifer Aniston and Sarah Jessica Parker, watch the Friends series and old Christina Aguilera videos.

You can talk for a long time about what aesthetics will dominate next year, but after reading this material we would like to end with a biting quote from Katarina Shramko, author of the Scoteena Telegram channel, that will definitely be something to think about.

“There’s just too much now. Everything in general. Therefore, I don’t think any subculture can pull the blanket over itself for more than a few seasons. We are no longer between trends and trends, but multiple worlds and unnecessary categorizations. “genie mode” (the expression is a form of laziness of behavior, sassiness and greed, as well as rejection of social norms) where people who search nowhere or find themselves nowhere can find themselves somewhere among the chaotic outfits of Portia from season 2 of White Lotus. It means. note. ed.).). Portia is a typical Gen Z outcast who buys everything either on the mass market or on recommendations from the Internet, and a “genie mode” person no longer cares about what it looks like. Both are in complete disarray. But there is nothing to worry about because the whole world is more or less the same place.