A dermatologist classifies the anti-acne active ingredients according to their effectiveness

Acne, this inflammatory skin diseaseusually develops during puberty and declines spontaneously between the ages of 20 and 25. But in some people it can last longer and even look good after adolescence in people who have never suffered from skin blemishes. If an oral treatment can be recommended by a doctor, topical treatments have also proven their effectiveness, especially thanks to some active ingredients.

The ranking of anti-acne ingredients according to a dermatologist

London-based dermatologist Dr Aamna Adel regularly posts videos on her TikTok account, which has 1.2 million subscribers. Recommendations to take care of her dry skin, tips to combat hyperpigmentation or even to stop hair loss, the health professional regularly shares her advice on the Chinese social network.

In one of his latest videos, he gives them ranking of the six most popular anti-acne ingredientsand some names might mean something to you.

Here is the dermatologist’s list, from the mildest ingredient to the one he considers the most effective:

• bakuchiol
• Azelaic acid
• Niacinamide
• Benzoyl peroxide
• salicylic acid
• Vitamin A derivatives (retinoids)

Topping the list are benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, and retinoids.

Benzoyl peroxide

the benzoyl peroxide, present in the INCI lists under the name of “benzoyl peroxide”, is an oxidizing and keratolytic (ie exfoliating) agent whose bactericidal effect reduces the proliferation of the bacterium involved in acne, P. acnes. It’s very effective at fighting mild to moderate blemishes, but it has one major flaw: it can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays and cause redness and dry skin.

In France, it is found in the famous Curaspot rinse-off treatment from Galderma laboratories (available in pharmacies), as well as in some prescription creams such as Cutacnyl® and Epiduo®. In small doses (and low concentrations), it can be used during pregnancy after discussion with your doctor.

salicylic acid

L’salicylic acid, also known as beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), is an oil-soluble exfoliant, making it able to cut through sebum and unclog deep pores. Thanks to its keratolytic properties, it promotes cell renewal and helps eliminate dead cells. Anti-inflammatory (note, aspirin is a derivative of salicylic acid), it also helps calm the redness and irritation associated with skin rashes.

BHA is very effective at dealing with excess sebum in oily skin and fighting light blemishes, but sensitive skin may find it too harsh. Like benzoyl peroxide, it can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is advisable to limit exposure to UV rays and apply sunscreen every morning while using the product containing this active ingredient.

Salicylic acid is a popular active ingredient and can be found in many over-the-counter products. Its use is not prohibited during pregnancy, but it is always advisable to consult a doctor.

Retinoids

The retinoids are a family of active ingredients that includes vitamin A and its derivatives, including retinol, retinal (also called retinaldehyde), retinoic acids and retinoid esters. These are antioxidants that have a reputation for fighting wrinkles, promoting collagen production, boosting cell turnover, erasing age spots, and unclogging pores.

Despite these undeniable qualities, retinoids still have a flaw: they can cause a process called retinization, which leads to redness, dryness and peeling, especially at the beginning of treatment. It should therefore be gradually integrated into your beauty routine. A high SPF should also be applied every morning for the duration of the treatment.

Highly potent retinoic acid treatments are available by prescription only (Retin-A®, Differin®, Tazorac®, etc.), but retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoid esters may be among the treatments available over the counter.

As a precautionary measure, topical retinoids are contraindicated in pregnant women and those planning to become pregnant.

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