Even if it hasn’t started yet fallour coin has arrived mood new season since she started September. Well, the parade Iron Peter in the context of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid made us wish start the summer againor at least want the time to pass quickly so you can enjoy what comes in fashion terms in the next season of spring-summer 2023. The catwalk, painted fuchsia and orangetwo of the colors more in trend – and everything indicates that they will remain in SS23 – it was already a harbinger that the proposal of one of the most recognized firms to national and international level It would be anything but boring. And when the start processionthis binomial of tonalities in degraded key has been the perfect background of the woman and man collection for spring-summer 2023 Iron Peter.
with the actor Xavier King opening the parade, and celebrities What Paula Echevarria or Alvaro Morte witness the show of the first rowstarted with a proposal that the landing strip of colour, fluidity and an artisanal look that was breathed into the pieces the models wore. But who better than? Nacho Aguayocreative director for women of the company, to decipher the essence of CAPTAIN WARDa collection with the chance to reinvent yourself thanks to a shipwreck and that invites you to disconnect to find yourself. And it is that this proposal refers to the captain who designed the first lifebuoy in 1854and that helps to castaways, hence the name. But if you want discover all the keys of this vitamin collection by Pedro del Hierro, don’t miss our interview with the designer:
1. Your proposal from CAPITAN WARD is the chance to reinvent yourself. Is it something you’ve also done with this collection, reinventing yourself?
In each collection we try to reinvent ourselves, to give novelty, within the universe of the same Pedro del Hierro woman, we try to be faithful to it, but update it and make it more contemporary, playing a little with the character. We follow the canons and the same late motive of the brand, but we try to reinvent ourselves.
2. Disconnecting to reconnect with yourself is one of the mantras you want to capture with the collection. How have you reflected this in the garments and accessories?
The premise of the collection is the chance that a desert island gives you to have time. How many times have we repeated: “I would like to be on a desert island right now”. Well, it’s a bit of that, it’s the hook effect of quitting, of reconnecting with you, with your partner. Being on a deserted beach with your partner makes you a little more seductive, a little more playful. And this is what we have tried to do. We’ve made garments much smoother. Having all the clothes, having time, what the castaway does is as if she personalizes them and accesses them, then she makes her own necklaces, embroiders the clothes, sticks macrame applications on them… This is kind of the idea of time, of the fact that you have time to connect and be able to do what you love.
3. In general, what are the main features of the collection?
I think it’s a casual, colorful collection in general, like more fluid. She is cheerful and positive. It is enjoying, enjoying the moment, the clothes you wear, but above all the feeling of being in the summer and enjoying and daring with new things, and especially with color.
4. Craftsmanship is a fundamental axis in this proposal thanks to these three skilled craftsmen in crochet, painting and embroidery. How was the cooperation with them experienced and what value do they add to your proposal?
The craftsmen’s work has been truly enriching. They are 3 craftsmen who were somehow part of our team, either working with us on the design or the styling, so the truth is it was great to have them. We’ve suggested them or given them a look and they’ll adapt it or within the inspiration that they’re doing something specific, and each one has been chosen. There has been a craftsman who has made all the crochet pieces for us, there are some that are in a garment and others that are garments in their own right. What she’s done are like postcards, like there’s nowhere you could paint what you see and she’s doing it with crochet, and the truth is they’ve been very beautiful. Then the embroiderer has made pieces for us that are slightly embroidered in glass with whatever this castaway sees. And, Almudena, who has also walked the catwalk, has asked us for a look and has already adapted it by painting some shells, a palm tree… and it turned out very beautiful.
5. What are the main pieces of clothing and accessories in the women’s collection?
I would say the main pieces of the collection are flowing dresses, we mainly did what most dresses do, so I think it’s a collection like flowing dress, straps, neckline… I think that’s a little la la is most important part of the clothes. And after the accessories, we made the same sandal size, but in three heights, which gives the feeling that you made them yourself, and then others are worn as bracelets to tie the ankles, others that are put on the finger… I think those are the main points.
6. Although together with Álex Miralles you managed to generate a duality between both collections, creating gender fluidity. How is this reflected in CAPITAN WARD?
We have achieved, I believe, a fluidity between men and women because we use the same materials, the same fabrics, the same colours, the same types of garments… The men’s collection is always easier to put on for women than for women for men, but I think that in this show you can perfectly see how that gender fluidity has materialized, that fluid identity, that ability to wear whatever you want. We continue to do group outings so that the concept is understood a bit.
7. This collection also invites you to take advantage of the time. What is the balance of this time at the head of Pedro del Hierro?
It seems like an eternity that I have been in Pedro del Hierro as it has been seven years already. The balance is super positive from where it was to where it is, not just at the brand positioning level, but at the result level, at the collection level, at the team level… I think we are in a wonderful world and with a desire to grow, with a desire to keep working together, with different kinds of people, hungry to generate more and better. The balance can only be positive, because I look back and couldn’t be more proud of the people who have guided me during this time. Because in the end I am nothing more than the visible head of a team that works hard every day.
And it is that, as you explained Nacho Aguayothis staging in the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Madrid it is presented as a positive shipwreck, from a cheerful and playful perspective. The experience of the castaway is experienced as that of a survivor who used time. That’s why it’s a collection that invites you to enjoy the timeor, the most precious possession that even those who sail the seas in search of great treasures cannot conquer. His new spring-summer collection wantsberar of a saturated routine, turning everyone into a castaway and giving each other time to bond with themselves. This is how Pedro del Hierro generates a dialogue between the pday and night returns of the collection, consisting of a casual style that becomes more sophisticated as the hours of the day wear on – the test, of the fuchsia suit from the first image to the bright black of the last.
Chromatic the collection uses colors that shape the landscape of a desert island: the color of the sand, the seawaterthe shades of a sunset from the coast. In contrast, for night piecesbet on another ungovernable treasure: the starry skywith an emphasis on colors such as: white, black, beige and gold. Surely, CAPTAIN WARD by Pedro del Hierro show one collection with a colonial but relaxed atmospherewith emphasis on the unstructured and flowing piecesand where both Nacho Aguayo and Alex Mirallescreative directors for women and men respectively, have chosen garments in which the great protagonist and common link is that they all have a point of customizationthanks to three artisan women who were present during the development of this collection -Flor Arias for the embroideryVictoria Munoz for the crochet and Almudena Cañedo for the paint-, and that gender fluidity that invites us to escape without fear, to rediscover ourselves and the contact with the essence of each.
Source: Marie Claire
