The head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America has been suspended from his role after a physical altercation with animal rights activists during New York Fashion Week.
Steven Kolb was removed from his leadership position at the CFDA following a wave of public backlash over his handling of a protest at a runway show for the fashion brand COS.
The CFDA is a not-for-profit trade association founded in 1962, representing hundreds of America's foremost womenswear, menswear, jewelry, and accessory designers. As a leading figure in the American fashion industry, Kolb has overseen the official New York Fashion Week calendar and managed programs that fund emerging design talent.
Activists from PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) attempted to disrupt the COS presentation by storming the runway with signs. According to footage and reports from the event, Kolb forcefully grabbed the placards from the demonstrators. He then covered one activist's mouth with his hands before tackling a female activist to the floor and wrapping his legs around her.
The incident quickly became the most viral scandal of the New York fashion showcase. PETA is an international animal rights organisation known for its high-profile campaigns against the use of animal products in fashion, including fur and leather. Their activists frequently stage protests at major fashion weeks to draw attention to their cause. Following the altercation and subsequent outcry, the CFDA suspended Kolb.
PETA activists also targeted the Swedish fast-fashion giant H&M, which owns the COS brand, attempting to disrupt its runway presentation.
Statements on the London runway
The controversy in New York took place against the backdrop of a packed season across both the American and British fashion capitals, where streets were filled with global stars arriving to view the latest collections from the industry's major players.
In London, pregnant singer Leigh-Anne Pinnock turned her runway appearance for the brand Di Petsa into a performance piece dedicated to motherhood. The English singer and former member of the pop group Little Mix walked the catwalk wearing a top designed to create the visual illusion of lactation, with liquid appearing to flow from the bust. The Di Petsa label, founded by Greek designer Dimitra Petsa, is celebrated for its signature wet look garments, which use specialized draping techniques to make fabric appear permanently soaked.
Also in the British capital, actor Emma Corrin attended the Alexander McQueen show wearing a sheer, high-necked black dress. The luxury British fashion house, founded by the late Lee Alexander McQueen, is renowned for its dramatic presentations and remains a cornerstone of the London schedule.
Meanwhile, entrepreneur and reality television star Kim Kardashian used the platform of London Fashion Week to open the first European boutique for Skims, the shapewear and clothing brand she founded in 2019.
Russian model Alesya Kafelnikova was among the few models from her country participating in the London events, walking the runway in a leather ensemble for the debut show of the r_and_m_leathers brand.
Fallen angels and Mexican sunsets
The London schedule also featured a presentation by Liza Keane, which showcased a fallen angel look. Rather than presenting a glossy and detached aesthetic, the show aimed for a vulnerable style, with models appearing soaked by rain and walking with mud on their feet. The collection featured sheer dresses, frayed hoodies, and torn wings, with the designs aiming to communicate a beauty that does not require flawlessness.
Back in New York, the LaQuan Smith show drew attendees including singer Coco Jones, who arrived in a look inspired by the aesthetics of the 1970s and 1980s. The New York-based designer, known for his glamorous evening wear, built his latest collection on the contrast between soft, airy textures, animal prints, and a pronounced, sexy silhouette.
At the Grace Ling presentation, rapper Saweetie arrived wearing a sculptural silver corset resembling armor made of branches, paired with a black satin skirt.
The New York schedule also featured designer Patricio Campillo, whose collection for his eponymous brand Campillo drew on memories of Mexico. Inspired by local traditions and the colours of the Mexican sunset, the clothing line incorporated shades of pink, yellow, and burnt orange, alongside materials including horsehair, silver, and onyx.
