Fluoride in mascara, aluminum in deodorant, and 3 more unexpected ingredients in your cosmetics

For many, the composition of cosmetics is something even more incomprehensible than the illegible handwriting of a doctor. It’s really hard to understand the abbreviations commonly used on product labels. In addition, many substances hidden behind complex names still arouse suspicion in the community of dermatologists and cosmetic chemists-technologists. For example, some believe that the fluoride contained in lipstick and mascara does not affect the body in any way. And others, on the contrary, rely on its toxic effect. We asked a dermatologist and private label developers to explain which apparently carcinogenic ingredients in cosmetics are actually safe and which are not.

Does aluminum in antiperspirants cause breast cancer?

Antiperspirants almost always contain aluminum salts – aluminum chloride, aluminum hydrochloride or aluminum zirconium. Ekaterina Savitskaya, co-founder of natural cosmetics brand Booster Bar, explains that these ingredients help reduce sweating and have antibacterial properties, thereby eliminating the nasty odor of sweat.

According to Natalia Surikova, a dermatologist at DocDeti and DocMed clinics, the first assumptions about aluminum’s role in breast cancer development emerged in the early 2000s and were associated with a study by British chemist Chris Excel. In it, he found an increase in the concentration of aluminum salts in the affected tissues in women with breast cancer. This study has been the impetus for numerous studies that have not confirmed the role of aluminum in the development of breast cancer in women. After that, the US FDA recognized the aluminum content in deodorants as safe.

Is fluoride in mascara and lipstick dangerous?

In 2021, American researchers found that more than half of popular cosmetic brands contain high levels of PFAS, a group of chemicals that are resistant to moisture, high temperatures, and oils. Thus, organic fluorine was found in lipstick, eyeliner, mascara, foundation, concealer, lip balm, blush, nail polish and other products.

Anastasia Dudko, founder of the Anaminerals mineral cosmetics brand

“PFAS are fluorosurfactants, or they are also called eternal chemicals. The title of “eternal” has stuck to them due to their stability not only in cosmetics, but also in the environment. They are difficult to dispose of in natural conditions: under the influence of moisture, high temperatures. Due to this stability, these substances are in the soil, It can accumulate in water and in the human body.In the cosmetic industry, this class of chemicals is used in foundations, waterproof mascaras and lipsticks.PFAS can enter the body through the mucous membrane or be absorbed by the skin.After entering the body, these chemicals are not excreted from the body, but accumulate.From the latest PFAS research published in the journal Environmental Science and Technology one showed that these substances damage the immune system and can cause hormonal disorders.

However, in addition to cosmetics, fluoride is found in food, water, and the environment. Also, a person ingests a much larger dose of PFAS along with unfiltered drinking water, food, drink, and air. That’s why the fluorine content in cosmetics is minimal compared to other sources, explains Natalia Surikova, dermatologist at DocDeti and DocMed clinics.

Do phthalates in nail polish penetrate the body?

Phthalates are another class of chemicals. They are most commonly found in nail polishes and are called DEA or DETA. They are allowed to be used in cosmetics, but many continue to worry about their toxic properties.

Anastasia Dudko cites a study proving that phthalates can cause breast cancer, obesity and type 2 diabetes when they enter the body. However, they are now classified as a group of mildly toxic substances. That is, this ingredient should not pose a threat to the body, if the manufacturer does not exceed the recommended dosage at the time of manufacture. But phthalates like PFAS have the ability to accumulate in the body and it is this fact that warrants the negative consequences listed above.

And the main question – can phthalates still penetrate the body through the nail plate?

Natalya Surikova, dermatologist at DocDeti and DocMed clinics

“Back to anatomy – the nail is a dense horny plate that covers the terminal phalanx of each finger and performs a protective function. The absorption of substances applied to the nail plate is negligible. They can affect the structure of the nail, making it thinner, dry, brittle, but not able to penetrate the body through the nail plate in significant concentrations.

Is propylene glycol in cosmetics dangerous?

Ekaterina Savitskaya, co-founder of the natural cosmetics brand Booster Bar

“Propylene glycol is considered one of the most common ingredients in traditional cosmetics – it binds water, is a humectant and emulsifier. It is also found in foods and many medicines. Non-synthetic propylene glycol is quite safe when dosed correctly. Here, the responsibility for controlling the content of such ingredients in formulations rests with the manufacturers. However, propylene glycol of synthetic origin is prohibited in natural cosmetics.

Unfortunately, there is still harm from propylene glycol. It often causes allergic reactions, especially in people familiar with dermatitis, eczema, acne, and psoriasis. Therefore, owners of sensitive skin should always read the composition of the products and try to avoid propylene glycol.

Can talc in face powder settle on organs?

Talc is a mineral from the class of layered silicates. Its main feature is that it absorbs moisture from the surface. Therefore, it is often used in decorative cosmetics – loose and pressed powders, bronzers, sculptors and blush.

In general, cosmetic talc does not pose a threat to the body. Assumptions about its toxic effect arose after asbestos impurities were found in it, which is considered carcinogenic. However, before entering a cosmetic product, minerals now undergo laboratory tests and are tested for impurities of heavy metals, says Anastasia Dudko, founder of the Anaminerals mineral cosmetics brand. Therefore, there are no or acceptable amounts of asbestos impurities in cosmetics.

Is talc harmful when inhaled? Only if it exceeds the permissible asbestos content. And even in this case, the particles must be very small (less than 0.1 micron) in order to enter the lungs, pass through all the defense systems of the body and settle in the body. Therefore, the use of talc in the cosmetic industry is allowed and approved by eco-standards.