Discover niacinamide, the miraculous cosmetic active “that looks like an Instagram filter”

Among the underrated active ingredients of cosmetics I ask: niacinamide. Don’t you know her? She is normal! It is not one of the names that brands such as CBD, hyaluronic acid, retinol, or vitamin C typically feature.

Yet it is rich in benefits for the skin and can adapt to all types, provided you know how to use it correctly. Come on, let’s get to the heart of the matter, follow us!

What is niacinamide?

niacinamide, also called vitamin B3 or vitamin PP (Pellagra Preventive), is a cosmetic active ingredient synthesized in low doses by the human body. Composed of nicotinic acid and its amide (responsible for the peptide bond between different amino acids) nicotinamide, niacinamide and both antioxidant, moisturizing and regenerating according to Typology.

It therefore has a true versatility of benefits that many other ingredients can envy.

The benefits of niacinamide on the skin

Niacinamide has so many virtues that it is difficult to name them all. In particular, he is given the capacity to smooth the skin texture, improves its elasticity, reduces the appearance of redness, pigment spots and even fine lines. There is also talk of excellent benefits on the regulation of sebaceous secretion (hello oily skin that thinks they have nothing to put aside from drying products).

Basically, it is a true all-purpose ingredient. which acts quickly on the epidermis and then knows how to become indispensable to our routine. And it is not Sophie Strobel, a biologist and cosmetologist contacted by Madmoizelle, who will say the opposite:

“Niacinamide does a lot of things. For me, it’s the asset that looks the most like an Instagram filter when placed on the skin.

It is a lightener that works very well so the complexion will be more even and radiant. It tightens the pores, so the skin texture is less grainy and the light reflects better. It is soothing, stimulates the synthesis of ceramides to have a more hydrated skin. It is anti-inflammatory. It acts on the elasticity of the skin …

It may be less anti-aging than retinol, but it still has a very global effect on the structure and surface of the epidermis. All this in a relatively short time. “

Why has niacinamide recently become a leading ingredient?

As we told you above, niacinamide was not discovered yesterday. On the contrary, it is used in cosmetics (such as Vitamin B3 or Vitamin PP) For years.

She wasn’t given the credit she deserved simply becauseshe is not as glamorous and selling as the other stars whose name is recognizable among all as retinol or vitamin C. Its popularity began to grow exponentially when brands began to appear that featured simple active ingredients such as The Ordinary, The Inkey List or Typology.

Sophie Strobel, for her part, poses this new popularity to a focus mainly on the ingredient:

“There is a huge trend on the active ingredient similar to the dermis: ingredients that can be found in the skin such as vitamins C, A, hyaluronic acid, ceramides … And also those that are not naturally present in the epidermis but which are very active ingredients such as salicylic acid or azelaic acid.

Finally, niacinamide fits there because it is one of the most interesting molecules because it is more global and better tolerated.

A quick guide to niacinamide

Niacinamide can do both be used as a serum or booster, to offer the skin a real care up to 10% or even 15%.

“As a serum, a few drops are enough for the whole face before applying the moisturizer”, says Nassim Hamek, development manager of Typology, a Marie Claire. “Not particularly sensitive to light or oxidation, and not photosensitizing, it can be applied day and night. “

In addition to using the pure active, you can also find niacinamide in facial cleansers, water-based moisturizers, lotions and even serums. It can also be distinguished in SPFs because it has photoprotective benefits.

If, on the other hand, you buy the pure active ingredient and want to dilute it in a formula, pay attention: niacinamide is very little diluted with oily formulas.

Now that you know everything, you can get started! To go!

Our niacinamide expense

Cover image credits: Unsplash – @Nati Melnychuk.